How to Build a Firewood Storage Rack

Written by dave p. fisher
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How to Build a Firewood Storage Rack
A rack can be used to dry firewood or simply to store it. (Jupiterimages/ Images)

Firewood can be stacked or stored in a variety of ways. Wet or green wood needs to be dried before it can be burnt. The most effective way to dry wood is naturally by wind and sun. Building a wood rack is good way to stack green wood so that it can dry. A wood rack is also helpful to contain wood on a porch or in a garage. Building a portable wood rack is a simple assembly; it can be built in any size, and set up any place.

Skill level:
Moderately Easy

Things you need

  • 6-foot 2-by-4 board
  • 8-foot 2-by-4 board
  • 10-foot 2-by-4 board
  • 8 carriage bolts with washers and nuts, 1/4-by-5 inch
  • Galvanised nails
  • Saw (hand or power)
  • Power drill
  • 1/4-inch wood drill bit
  • 1/4-inch box wrench
  • Claw hammer
  • Tape measure

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  1. 1

    Build a rack 4 feet long and 30 inches high. This is a good size for your porch; it will hold a quarter cord of wood. If you want to build a bigger rack, a rack 8 feet long and 4 feet high will hold one cord of wood. Four feet long and 4 feet high, or 8 feet long and 2 feet high, will hold one-half of a cord of wood. No matter the size, the construction is the same and they are all 12 inches wide.

  2. 2

    Cut the 10-foot 2-by-4 into four 30-inch pieces. Cut the 8-foot 2-by-4 into two 4-foot pieces. Cut the 6-foot 2-by-4 into six 12-inch pieces. By using these lengths there is no waste.

  3. 3

    Set the two 4-foot pieces parallel to each other with the 4-inch sides facing, the 2-inch sides up. Place one of the 12-inch pieces against one end of the 4-foot pieces. Square and flush it with the ends of the 4-foot pieces, and drive two nails through the 1-foot piece into the end of one of the 4-foot pieces. Do the same to the opposite end. The 12-inch piece is nailed to the outside.

  4. 4

    Repeat this procedure on the other end of the rack against the 4-foot pieces. You should have a rectangle frame with the ends of the 4-foot pieces inside the 12-inch pieces.

  5. 5

    Place one of the 30-inch pieces vertically inside one of the corners of the frame. Flush the 30-inch piece into the corner with the 4-inch side against the side of the 4-foot piece and the 2-inch side against the 12-inch piece. Drill two holes, one above the other, 1 inch apart, completely through the 4-foot side of the frame and the 30-inch piece.

  6. 6

    Push a carriage bolt through each hole. Tap the bolt heads with the hammer to seat the square collars snugly into the drilled holes. Put a washer on each bolt, then the nuts. Spin the nuts on and tighten them with the wrench until the washers bite into the wood. Repeat this procedure on the remaining three corners.

  7. 7

    Take a 12-inch piece and lay it, 4-inch side up, on top of the vertical 30-inch pieces on one end. Square the end with the top of the 30-inch piece and drive two nails through the 12-inch piece and into the end of the 30-inch vertical piece. Square up the opposite end and nail it in place. Do the same with the opposite end of the rack.

  8. 8

    Set a 12-inch piece on top of the 12-inch end piece of the rack, 2-inch side up, and tight against the vertical pieces. Square up the ends of the 12-inch pieces and drive two nails through the top 12-inch piece and into one of the vertical pieces. Do the same to the other vertical piece. Repeat this procedure on the opposite end of the rack. This will give stability to the sides of the rack.

Tips and warnings

  • By using galvanised nails, there is less chance of the pieces pulling apart. Rosined nails will work as well. Avoid smooth box nails as the pressure of the wood on the rack will make them slip out.
  • Two coats of a protective sealer on the rack will protect it from moisture.
  • Build the rack with kiln-dried 2-by-4s; if the boards are green, the rack will warp and twist apart.
  • Be careful when sawing; keep the blade moving away from yourself.

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