How to Replace Skate Blades

Updated February 21, 2017

Blades that are in poor condition can slow your skill progression and take the fun out of ice skating. Worn or damaged blades prevent figure skaters from spinning and jumping effectively, and can cause hockey players to slip and fall when the blade casing makes contact with the ice. If you feel your skates blades are starting to affect your performance on the ice, replace them with more advanced models that allow you to make the most of your practice sessions.

Remove the screws from the base of your skate using a screwdriver or drill.

Lift the blades off your boots once you've removed all the screws. Wipe away any debris or dirt from the base of the boot with a damp rag.

Take your old blades to a local skate shop and purchase new blades in the same size. According to the MK Skate Company, blades must fit snugly along the length of the boot from toe to heel with no more than a 1/4-inch difference between the boot length and the blade mounting platform.

Place your new blades onto the base of your skates and hold themt in place by hand. Line up the toe of the boot with the tip of the blade mounting platform. Center the blade on the base of the skate visually, using the seam on the front of the boot for guidance.

Examine the holes in your new blades to make sure they line up with the existing screw holes in your boots. If they do, use these holes as you install your new blades. If not, fill these holes with wood putty before proceeding.

Position your new blades on the base of your boots, keeping them centred in the desired installation location. Drill new holes using the openings in your blade mounting platform as a guide.

Install one new screw in the front of each blade and one in the rear. These screws allow you to test your skates to check the blade placement.

Put on your skates and skate around the rink. Glide on one foot and then the other to test the location of the blade. If it feels like the blade position is wrong, ask your coach for assistance with repositioning the blade.

Insert screws to fasten the blade to the boot. Fill all screw holes on the base of the skate except for one at the front and one at the back. These empty holes serve as a start point for future blade mountings.

Inspect the plastic casing or moulding around your blades. If you see visible screw heads, your skate blades are removable. If no fasteners are visible, you will need to purchase new moulding or new skates, rather than simply replacing the blades.

Remove the screws from the front and rear of your blades using a drill or screwdriver. Take out the blades or runners and wipe down the plastic moulding clean with a damp rag to remove dirt and debris.

Take your blades to your local skate shop and purchase a new pair. Your new blades must be the same size and profile of your existing ones and should feature holes along the top that match the holes found on your old ones.

Insert the new runners into the plastic moulding on your skates. Line up the holes in the runners with the holes in your skates. Make sure the writing or logo on the blades face towards the side of your skates that house your pinky toes.

Fasten the new blades in place using the enclosed screws or fasteners. Use a screwdriver, drill or Allen wrench, depending on the types of fastener.


Add a single drop of epoxy glue into each screw hole in your boots before mounting blades to enhance security. If your figure skating blades include a slot at the front and back of the mounting platform, use this slot for test mounting. If you place a screw into the slot, it is easier to shift the front or back of the blade and make adjustments without removing both screws. If your hockey skate blades can't be replaced, try buying new moulding with matching blades. Use a screwdriver to remove the existing moulding from the base of your skates and replace it with the new moulding. This is still cheaper than buying new skates--and you won't have to waste time breaking in new boots.

Things You'll Need

  • Screwdriver
  • Drill
  • Rags
  • Wood putty
  • Replacement blades or runners
  • Epoxy glue
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About the Author

Emily Beach works in the commercial construction industry in Maryland. She received her LEED accreditation from the U.S. Green Building Council in 2008 and is in the process of working towards an Architectural Hardware Consultant certification from the Door and Hardware Institute. She received a bachelor's degree in economics and management from Goucher College in Towson, Maryland.