Whether you are breeding rabbits for show, the commercial meat or pet market, or just have several pet bunnies for your own enjoyment, the proper set-up can mean the difference between way too much work for you and a clean and healthy environment for them. Commercial rabbit cages are simple to build and can be done at a very reasonable cost. They can be built by a single person, and require very little construction skill and just a few tools. With just a little planning you can turn any garage, basement or shed into a commercial rabbitry.
Things you need
J clip pliers
Finger loop springs (door latches)
Roll of galvanised wire (1/2" x 1")
Metal "L" channels
Building Your Rabbit Cages
Cut 6 sheets of galvanised wire in 24x24-inch sections. (The most common commercial rabbit cage size is 24x24 inches.) That is suitable for most small to medium sized rabbits, including the most popular commercial meat rabbit, the Californian. For extra large breeds such as New Zealands it is better to go with a larger cage of 36x36 inches. You can adjust sizes accordingly.
Attach front, back, and side panels to the bottom of the cage with J clips and then bend them closed with the J clip pliers.
Attach the top panel to front, back and sides with J clips and bend them closed with the J clip pliers.
Cut a door opening, reserving the cut-out piece for the actual door panel. Make sure your opening is large enough to allow you to comfortably reach in and remove your animals. An 8-inch square section located in the middle of the front panel is a good space and size to aim for.
Trim the door guard in three sections to cover the top, bottom and opening edge of the door panel. The door guard is a simple piece of rubber that fits snugly over the wire edges to protect your arms, clothing and the animal from scratches on raw wire.
Attach a finger loop door hook to the opening edge of the door wire. Clamp the closing end of the door panel to the cage opening with J clips and clamp the clips shut with the J clip pliers.
Bolt "L" channel metal poles to all four corners of the cage to use as legs so your cage stands at an easy height for handling; this also keeps your cage up off the ground, which makes cleaning underneath it easy. (Waste will fall through the wire, which allows you to so sweep it up and dispose of it.) You can exchange 2x4 wood posts for the metal "L" channels if you want, but these can rot on the bottom due to waste accumulation and you will need to replace them regularly. If the rafters in your roofing materials are exposed, you can hang cages with chain to eliminate the need for legs.
Things you need
- Wire cutters
- J clip pliers
- J clips
- Door guards
- Finger loop springs (door latches)
- Roll of galvanised wire (1/2" x 1")
- Metal "L" channels
- 1-inch bolts