According to Mazda 3 Revolution, you can change the oil in all Mazda 3 models with 2.3 litre or 2.5 litre engines and Mazda 3 vehicles up to 2009, using 4.25 quarts of API service grade SL or SM motor oil. Check your owners manual for any Mazda 3 models newer than this because it may require SM oil rather than SL oil. Kwik-Fit reports that, for higher mileage cars, an oil change should be performed every 12 months.
- Skill level:
Things you need
- Protective clothing
- Manual-operated jack
- Jack safety stands
- 10mm socket
- Flat head screw driver
- 6mm hex head socket
- 76mm cap-style oil filter wrench
- Oil drain pan
- 17mm socket
- 2 O-rings
- Lubrication oil
- Dry cloth
- New oil filter cartridge
- 10 to 30 n-m range torque wrench
Apply the handbrake. Put the car into first gear. Raise the car to access the undercarriage using a manual-operated jack. Insert safety stands beneath the raised car at each jacking point.
Access the engine by opening the bonnet (bonnet). You can open the bonnet manually by lifting a catch under the lip of the hood or by engaging the small lever or latch somewhere inside the vehicle, around the dashboard. Mazda 3 cars can have both, so check you particular car. Remove the plastic covering by lifting the two back corners.
Go underneath the car. Remove the 10mm bolts that hold the plastic cowling in place, using the 10mm socket. There are seven bolts located in the front and on each side at the back of the cowling.
Remove the two plastic pins that hold up the cowling, using the flat head screwdriver. Remove the cowling. Put the cowling aside to free up space.
Place the drain pan under the drain plug and remove the plug using the 17mm socket. The oil will come out quickly at first. Wait until the oil stops dripping before removing the pan. Replace the plug.
Unscrew the oil filter drain plug using the 6mm hex head socket. Use the 76mm filter wrench to remove the oil filter cartridge and have the pan ready for any remaining free oil which will drip out. Replace the 2 O-rings and oil them for added lubrication. Clean the components with a dry cloth.
Put in the new oil filter. There is no right way up. Tighten it against the spring tension. Reinstall the filter housing drain plug using the torque wrench and 6mm hex socket. Tighten to 10 n-m. This means Newton meters, which is a measure of force you apply to the filter via the torque wrench. Each torque wrench has a rating or force range written on it, or in the information pack that is bought with it. Refix the cowling.
Add 4.25 quarts of API service grade SL or SM motor oil to the engine. Check the oil level using the dipstick. Lower the car back to the ground and recheck the oil level.
Tips and warnings
- Always double-check oil requirements using your individual car manual to identify any specific requirements.
- ATS Euromaster reports that 1 in 4 cars are dangerously low on oil (See Reference 3). Check your oil level regularly to avoid breakdown.
- Do not support your car on a platform of loose bricks, which can collapse and cause serious injury.
- Do not change the oil or filter while the car is running.
- Wear protective clothing to avoid damage to your skin and clothes.
- Do not cross the oil filter thread when replacing it as you will damage the plastic.
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