Bound, or welted, pockets with flaps add a classic, tailored look to any jacket or coat. Traditionally, they were found on men's suit jackets, but recently they have appeared on fashionable tailored jackets and coats for women. They are usually placed horizontally on men's jackets, but may be set diagonally on women's clothing. If sewing is your passion, or buying off the rack isn't an option for you, creating this classic look is possible with attention to detail and precision stitching.
- Skill level:
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Things you need
- Pattern for a coat or jacket with a welt pocket with flap
- Pattern pieces
- Tailor's chalk
- Self fabric
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interface
Cut one pocket flap from the self fabric and one from the lining fabric for each pocket flap. Cut two pieces of fusible interface from the pocket flap pattern.
Place one piece of interfacing on the wrong side of the self fabric pocket flap and press with a hot steam iron to fuse it to the flap. Repeat with the lining of the pocket flap.
Place the right sides of the self and lining flap together, and sew around the sides and bottom. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch and clip curves. Turn and press. Top stitch around the seamed edges 1/4 inch from the edge.
Cut pocket welts (two for each pocket) from the self fabric and interface, and fuse the interface to the wrong side of the self fabric.
Fold the interfaced pocket welts in half with the right side out, and hand baste near the fold.
Mark the pocket opening on the right side of the garment with chalk, using the pattern markings. Cut a piece of interfacing 2 inches by 9 inches, and fuse it to the wrong side of the pocket opening.
Place one welt piece above the pocket marking and one below it with the raw edges facing the marking. Transfer the cross marks at the end of the pocket opening to the welts.
Cut one pocket pouch from the lining fabric and one from the self fabric. Place the lining over the bottom welt with the top even with the raw edge and the sides aligned with the welt. Transfer the cross marks to the pocket lining.
Lay the pocket flap, lining side up, over the top welt. The ends of the flap should be inside the cross marks.
Pin the top welt, the pocket flap and the pocket to the garment, and sew a wide zigzag stitch along the raw edge between the cross marks. Repeat with the bottom welt and pocket lining.
Sew a straight stitch seam exactly from one cross mark to the other on the top and bottom welts.
Turn the garment to the inside and draw a chalk mark exactly centred between the two stitch lines. Start and stop 3/8 inch from the ends. Draw diagonal marks from the chalk mark to the top line of stitching and to the bottom line of stitching on each end.
Carefully cut along the chalk marks, leaving little triangles at each end of the slit.
Turn the garment to the front and push the pocket pieces through the slit.
Press the pocket. The welts should meet, but not overlap. Press the little triangles toward the edges of the pocket. Remove the basting stitches from the welts.
Turn the garment to the wrong side and sew the pocket pieces together, catching the little triangles in the side seams. Finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch.
Tips and warnings
- Sewing a bound pocket flap is not recommended for the novice seamstress; however, if you have the skill to sew a jacket, you can make a bound pocket flap.
- Making bound or welted pockets requires precision stitching. Follow the markings exactly.
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