Making your own single bed frame is a good project for newcomers to woodworking who are up for a bit of a challenge. The bed frame uses simple butt joints and is a sturdy but attractive design. This bed will be ideal for children's rooms or as a spare bed in the study or guest room, and you can be proud to say you made it yourself.
- Skill level:
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Things you need
- 2 planks of 2.5 cm (1 inch) timber, 30 x 195.5 cm (12 x 77 inches)
- 2 planks of 2.5 cm (1 inch) timber, 30 x 99 cm (12 x 39 inches)
- 5 cm (2 inch) wood screws
- 4 planks 2.5 cm (1 inch) lumber, 20 x 99 cm (8 x 39 inches)
- 25 cm (10 inch) corner brackets
- 2 cm (3/4 inch) wood screws
- 5.6 cm (2 1/4 inch) bolts and accompanying nuts
- 2 planks 2.5 cm (1 inch) timber, 10 x 81 cm (4 x 32 inch)
- 2 planks 2.5 cm (1 inch) timber, 10 x 56 cm (4 x 22 inch)
- 1 plank 2.5 cm (1 inch) timber, 10 x 104 cm (4 x 41 inches)
- 1 sheet plywood of MDF 2cm (3/4 inch), 97.8 x 194 cm (38 1/2 x 76 1/2 inches)
Form two pieces of 2.5 cm (1 inch) thick lumber measuring 30 x 195.5 cm (12 x 77 inches) and two pieces measuring 30 x 99 cm (12 x 39 inches) into a box, with the ends of the 99 cm (39 inch) planks on the inside of the 195.5 cm (77 inch) planks making corners.
Clamp the planks in place. Drill four countersunk screw holes sized slightly smaller than 5 cm (2 inch) wood screws through the side of the 195.5 cm (77 inch) plank into the ends of the 99 cm (39 inch) planks. This is the base of the single bed frame.
Slot four planks of 2.5 cm (1 inch) thick lumber measuring 20 x 99 cm (8 x 39 inches) into the frame, parallel with the 99 cm (39 inch) ends of the frame. Push the two outer planks up against the ends of the frame and space the other two evenly between them. Push all the planks down so the bottom of the planks is on the same level as the bottom of the frame. These are mattress supports.
Insert a corner bracket on either side of the ends of the middle two supports and in the corners of the end supports. Use 2 cm (3/4 inch) wood screws to attach the corner brackets to the frame and the support planks. This way the screw holes don't appear on the outside of the frame.
Position two planks of 2.5 cm (1 inch) thick timber measuring 10 x 81 cm (4 x 32 inch) (top legs) and two planks measuring 10 x 56 cm (4 x 22 inch) (end legs) in pairs on either side of each end of the frame. Have your helper assist you in lifting the frame so that it is 25 cm (10 inches) off the ground, then clamp the frame to the legs. The end legs will be flush with the top of the frame and the top legs will extend a further 25 cm (10 inches) above the frame.
Slot a plank of 2.5 cm (1 inch) thick lumber measuring 10 x 104 cm (4 x 41 inches) between the portion of the top legs that extends over the frame. Slide it down so that it is about 5 cm (2 inches) from the top of the legs. Drill two countersunk screw holes through th0e side of the top legs into the end of the headboard rail and secure with 5 cm (2 inch screws.
Place a sheet of 2 cm (3/4 inch) MDF or plywood sized 97.8 x 194 cm (38 1/2 x 76 1/2 inches) into the frame resting on the mattress supports.
Tips and warnings
- If you want to paint the frame, do so before assembly then touch up any visible screw holes afterward.
- Extend the leg length to 150 or 200 cm (60 or 80 inches) to transform the bed frame into a simple canopy bed.
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