How to Make a Rug Hooking Stand

Written by sandra benally
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How to Make a Rug Hooking Stand
A hooked rug can be made from various textures of yarn. (Hemera Technologies/AbleStock.com/Getty Images)

Hooking a rug is faster and easier when you have a rug hooking stand to stretch and secure your fabric. There are many rug hooking stands available at craft and fabric stores as well as online, but if you want to avoid the expense of manufactured stands, you can build one yourself. This rug frame is designed to sit on; you can straddle the base, or sit side-saddle style.

Skill level:
Moderate

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Things you need

  • 1-by-8-by-12 inch piece of lumber
  • Saw
  • 12 foot 1-by-2 inch piece of lumber
  • 14 wood screws 1 1/2 inch
  • 3 wood screws 2 1/2 inch
  • Drill
  • 1/4 inch drill bit
  • 4 bolts, 6 inch
  • 4 moulded plastic tri-knobs to fit bolts
  • 48 inch carding strip
  • Glue
  • Wood rasp or sander

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Instructions

  1. 1

    Cut the 1-by-2 board as follows: one piece 16 inches, four pieces 14 inches, four pieces six inches and two pieces four inches.

    How to Make a Rug Hooking Stand
    Eye your lumber to check for straightness or knots. (Michael Blann/Digital Vision/Getty Images)
  2. 2

    Round four corners on two of the six inch pieces. Round three corners on another six inch piece and round only one corner on final six inch piece. Round all corners of the 2-by-8 inch piece, which will be the base.

  3. 3

    Measure half an inch from each end of two 14 inch lengths (two inch face). Draw a line across each end and drill a pilot hole half an inch from the edge of the board on either side of the line. Drill a hole through the centre of the two inch surface of the remaining two 14 inch boards.

  4. 4

    Assemble the frame using eight 1 1/2 inch screws into the ends of the other two 14 inch boards, squaring the frame. The frame will be two inches deep. Cut four equal lengths of carding strip and attach to the top surface (one inch surface) of your frame, centred on each 14 inch length.

  5. 5

    Drill a hole through each rounded end of six inch pieces centred one inch from each end on two inch surface. Attach the six inch piece with three rounded corners to the centre front of the base. Place the flat corner of the two inch surface two inches deep at the centre of the base at a right angle to the front edge of the base. Drill pilot holes and screw three wood screws through the two inch depth of the six inch piece and into the base 1/4 inches apart.

  6. 6

    Form a two inch-deep "T" attaching flat end of the six inch piece to the centre of the 16 inch length. Drill two pilot holes half an inch from each side in the middle of the 16 inch length (8 inches from one end) on the two inch wide surface. Screw into place with wood screws.

  7. 7

    Drill a hole, half an inch from the end and centred on two inch side, through one end of each four inch long piece. Attach the other end on the top of each end of the "T." Drill two pilot holes through the bottom side of each end of the "T" and screw through "T" arm up into four inch pieces. The "T" now has two four inch arms pointing upwards, with a hole through the top of each.

  8. 8

    Align the holes in the four inch lengths with the holes on the outside of the frame. Slide a bolt through from the inside of frame and attach on outside with tri-knobs.

  9. 9

    Attach the two six inch pieces with two rounded ends on either side of the end of the "T" and on the base, sliding bolts through the holes and cap with tri-knobs. This forms two joints that can be adjusted for comfort in using the frame.

Tips and warnings

  • Trace the lid of a jar to round your boards.
  • Use a flat stool seat in place of base.
  • Make a cardboard model of the frame arm to adjust length for comfort.
  • Attach your backing to the frame with a staple gun if carding strip is unavailable.

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