Moving your ATV is difficult. Ramps are expensive. Building your own ramp is cheap, easy, and allows you to get your ATV from home to the field with ease. The biggest issue you will face is the weight of the ATV and the height of the vehicle you will be using. Steel or aluminium ramps are built to accommodate heavy weight and are designed to allow some flex with movement. Wood does not have that luxury but can still be just as sturdy. Building a wooden ramp for your ATV will allow you to move your vehicle without incurring exceptional costs.
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Things you need
- 2"x6" strips of wood
- 3/8" plywood sheets
- wood screws
- circular saw
- drill with Phillips head bit
- strips of recycled rubber
Determine the length and angle of your ramp. To measure properly, move your truck to the most commonly used loading area with the greatest height from ground to bed. This will ensure that all other areas will be lower and the ramp will accommodate the load with ease.
Using a board that will fit lengthwise in the bed of your vehicle, place it on the edge of the vehicle and drape it down to the ground. Make sure the angle is less than 45 degrees as any higher of an angle will make loading the ATV difficult. An ideal angle would be 30 degrees. Move the board until you achieve what you feel is the ideal angle and then measure the distance. This will be the length of your ramp. Write it down. Mark the angle of the board by drawing a level line from the bed onto the board directly.
Cut four 2x6 inch boards to the length determined in step two. These are the sides of the ramp. You will then support the ramp with 2x6 boards cut 1 foot in length. If your measurement from step two is 8 feet, you will need 7 1' boards. If the measurement was 9 foot, you will need a total of 8 1' boards. These 1' boards are the supports for the four long boards cut at the beginning of this step. Cut these 1' boards out of spare 2x6 boards at this time. Additional boards will be cut and used later.
Cut a four inch lip into what will be the lower side of the upper end of the ramp. This will be the lip that rests on edge of the truck or trailer to keep it from sliding off of the vehicle while loading or unloading. This will be a 90 degree cut along the line drawn while determining the angle in step one. Measure a four inch line from the edge of the board and then using a straight edge or carpenter's square, make a 90 degree turn and trace the line down. Cut this out and using this board as a template; cut the other three boards to be identical.
Measure and mark 1 foot increments from the lower side of the ramp up the length of the boards. Place two of the long 2x6 boards parallel to each other on a flat surface and 1 1' board at each mark between the two boards. Secure the 1' foot boards with two wood screws on each side. Repeat for the other two long boards. This is the skeleton of your ramp.
Place a support board at the top of the ramp. With the ramp on a flat surface and the lip facing up, place a 1' board flat on the surface of the ramp on the same end as the lip. This will be the upper support for the ramp. Make sure the support board is flush with what will be the top edges of the ramp. Secure with two wood screws per side. Repeat for the second ramp.
Place the ramp on the 3/8' plywood sheets and trace the outline onto the sheets. This will be the cover of the ramp. Multiple cuts may be necessary. Cut the plywood and secure to the top of the ramp using 1" wood screws every 6 inches down the length of the ramp and one screw in each 1' foot support board.
Using recycled rubber from old tires or other sources, cut and screw strips of rubber to the lip of the ramp. This will add stability and security to the ramp.
Tips and warnings
- The lower corner of the ramp should be a 90 degree angle that will dig into the ground when loading. If you will be primarily loading on cement, you may want to cut these edges to be flat on the ground instead, installing rubber onto those edges for additional security.
- While the ramp will be sturdy and capable of accommodating your needs, you will still want to use spotters when loading an ATV into a truck or trailer.