How to Use Pressure-Treated Plywood on a Shed Floor

Written by bob haring
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Shed floors are either concrete, if they are built on a slab foundation, or wood, if they are built on skids, piers and beams or similar elevated foundations. A wood shed floor may be made of planks or plywood, but plywood is the preferred material because it is sturdy, durable and easy to install. The best flooring is pressure-treated, meaning it is wood that has had chemical preservatives forced into it to prevent rot and decay and to discourage insect infestations.

Skill level:

Things you need

  • Tape measure
  • Moisture barrier
  • Plywood panels
  • Galvanised deck screws or nails
  • Screw gun or hammer

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  1. 1

    Design the shed floor to use as many full 4-foot by 8-foot plywood panels as possible to minimise the number of seams and joints. Plan all joints to meet over a joist for secure fastening. Measure with a tape measure to be certain of dimensions. Use tongue-and-groove plywood if available; this has a slot in one side that mates with a protrusion on the adjoining panel. This type of construction will make the joints more solid and secure.

  2. 2

    Place a moisture barrier over the shed floor joists as added protection against moisture on the floor. Pressure-treated lumber resists water rot, but the moisture barrier will help seal off any water that might penetrate and create problems on the shed floor.

  3. 3

    Run plywood panels with the face grain at right angles to the floor joists, if possible. This will provide maximum strength. Use 3/4-inch plywood for any shed floor; it will stand up to the weight of lawnmowers, tillers and other equipment stored in the shed. Paint the floor, or add vinyl tile to make it more resistant to dirt and grime, which can penetrate even treated plywood surfaces.

  4. 4

    Install plywood flooring with galvanised deck screws and a screw gun, or galvanised nails and a hammer. Use 1-1/2-inch nails or screws, which will go through the plywood into the floor joists. Fasten panels at all the joists. Put the cut ends of any panels that have to be cut to size toward the outside of the shed, so the seams of the panels will butt firmly if they are not tongue-and-groove connections.

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