When working with power saws to cut mitres, one important trick to know is the idea of complementing angles. All corners between two pieces must equal 90 degrees. Two 45 degree mitres, for instance, gives us a square corner. While a table saw bevel adjustment can cut up to a little past 45 degrees, it will not reach 60. It will reach 30, however, which is the same angle if the piece is repositioned to run the edge of the work piece through the blade vertically. For larger pieces it may be simpler to use a similar technique with a circular saw.
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Things you need
- 2-by-4 lumber
- Framing square
- C clamps
Locate the bevel adjustment wheel on the front of the table saw body, under the table. Release the wheel, by turning the small wheel in its centre counterclockwise to loosen it. Turn the wheel until the mitre gauge is aligned at 30 degrees. Turn the small locking wheel clockwise to tighten it in place. Use the height adjustment wheel on the side of the saw body to raise the blade as high as it will go.
Release the rip fence and slide it to the end of the table, out of the way. Screw two 2-by-4 pieces together along one long edge to form a long L-shaped piece. Lay this on your saw, with one board standing on its edge, against the base of the blade. Use a square to ensure the temporary fence is square to the edge of the saw table and clamp it in place with C clamps.
Start the saw and let the blade rub the edge off the 2-by-4 and spin up to full speed. Stand the work piece on its edge, with the face that needs to be mitred, toward the saw blade. Place the opposite face against the temporary fence, and run the board over the blade, keeping it against the fence, and pressed firmly down to the table.
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