How to Build a Covered Deck for a Mobile Home

Updated February 21, 2017

A covered deck will add character and value to your mobile home as long as you build it properly. It is an easier do-it-yourself project for a homeowner to complete than a room addition. A deck is an extension of your home's living space, and an even more useful one when it has a roof to protect you from the elements. Once you have planned out your deck and purchased the materials, you should be able to complete the deck in a weekend.

Place preformed concrete footers 1 foot inside the perimeter of what will be your completed deck. Place one footer every 3 feet, based on using a double thickness of 2-inch lumber. This will provide the support structure your deck beams will rest on.

Cut beams of pressure-treated lumber to the height of the deck floor from the ground, minus the thickness of the decking material, the height of the beams and the height of the concrete footers. For example, if your deck height is 24 inches from the ground across its breadth, subtract 2 inches for the decking, 4 inches (if you are using 2-by-4 lumber) for the support beams, and 3 inches for the height of the footer of your footers stand 3 inches over ground level. This means your deck piling beams need to be cut to 15 inches.

Install the piling beams into the concrete footers and secure them to the footers with construction adhesive between each footer and piling beam. Construction adhesive is a high-strength glue that comes in a caulk gun. You will squeeze adhesive onto the inside surfaces of the footer, then insert the piling beam.

Use decking screws to install metal beam supports onto the top of every pier. These metal braces give you a secure method of attaching horizontal decking beams to the vertical piling beams.

Cut your decking beams to the desired length. To do this, you will want to first determine the direction your decking floor will run. The beams need to be placed perpendicular to the flooring lumber. Measure the distance from the mobile home to the edge of the deck in a direction perpendicular to the direction the flooring will run. You will cut twice as many beams as you have rows of piers, plus two extra boards, so you can double the thickness of the lumber to give additional support to the deck.

Place two beam boards in each row of pier support brackets. Secure the brackets to the decking supports using decking screws.

Cut two pieces of the pressure-treated beam lumber to the desired width of the deck. You'll screw these pieces to the ends of the support beams to begin building the frame of the deck. Screw the two leftover beams that were cut the same length as the support beams into the ends of these boards. At this point, the frame of the deck is complete.

Cut your 2-by-6 lumber to the desired length and begin screwing it to the deck support beams to construct the floor of your deck. If the boards do not run the length of the deck, be sure to stagger the seams between beams. This will create a more professional look when the deck is finished.

Install 6-by-6 post bases at the corners of the deck. If the deck is more than 6 feet deep or wide, you will want to place a post base at the midpoint of each side of the deck that is over 6 feet. Post bases are metal supports that will fasten the support posts for the roof.

Place a 6-by-6 post in each base and secure with decking screws at the post base. Use scrap lumber to create a support structure for each post. The posts at the outside edge of the deck should be shorter than the posts adjacent to the mobile home. This will allow rain to flow away from the mobile home.

Place beams across each post for the roof of the deck. You will need someone to help you lift the beams into place and then to use a level to make sure the posts are not leaning. Fasten the beams to the posts using beam support braces.

Place sheets of plywood over the beams. Screw the sheets into the beams.

Install roofing material, such as shingles, to the deck roof.

Things You'll Need

  • Pre-formed concrete footers
  • Construction adhesive
  • 4-by-4 pressure-treated beams
  • 2-by-4 pressure-treated lumber
  • 2-by-6 pressure-treated lumber
  • 6-by-6 pressure-treated lumber
  • Plywood
  • Scrap lumber
  • Metal beam supports
  • Metal post bases
  • Deck screws
  • Level
  • Shingles or other roofing material
  • Roofing nails or screws, or other suitable roofing securing material
  • Screwdrivers or hammer
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About the Author

Heather Heinzer is a freelance writer from Wisconsin. She has been writing professionally since 2008 and has been featured in "Parents for Parents" magazine. She is planning to return to the University of Wisconsin-Rock County to obtain a degree in communications.