A sliding mirror wall cabinet requires some woodworking tools such as a router or table saw and can be constructed in a couple of hours with the proper tools. The cabinet can be built to fit mirrors you have on hand to decrease the expense.
- Skill level:
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Things you need
- Protective eyewear
- Diamond or carbide drill bit
- Masking tape
- Table saw or compound mitre saw
- Circular saw
- Cordless drill
- 1/16-inch drill bit
- Brad nailer with brads OR finishing nails and hammer
- Tape measure
- Stud finder
- Small box of 1/2-inch screws
- 2 mirrors, 16 by 20 inches
- 2 sliding mirror knobs and nuts
- 12 small 1-inch corner brackets and screws
- 4 hardwood boards, 1 by 6 inches by 36 inches long
- 2 hardwood boards 1 by 6 inches by 17 1/2 inches long
- 1 hardwood board 1 by 2 inches by 36 inches long OR 36-inch piece of quarter round trim
- 4 pieces of wood trim (optional) 1 inch by 36 inches
- Piece of interior-grade plywood 17 1/2 by 36 inches, by 1/2-inch thick
- Sliding door track and mounting hardware.
- Small can of water-based wood stain
- Cleaning cloths
- 6 wood screws, 3 inches long OR mounting brackets and screws
- Small carpenter's level
Put on safety goggles and put masking tape in an X over the location where you want the mirror's knob to be. Put carbide drill bit into the drill, and drill a hole into the mirror. Drill very slowly and do not press hard, or the mirror will break. Place second mirror face down onto the first mirror, and mark the exact location of the hole. Repeat procedure for second mirror and set it aside.
Sand each piece of wood to get rid of any splinters.
Attach one of the 36-inch boards to one of the 17 1/2-inch boards using an angle bracket and 1/2-inch wood screws, making sure the angle is square (90 degrees). Place the angle bracket on the inside angle where the boards meet so the bracket will be hidden inside the cabinet. You now have the top board of the cabinet and one side of the cabinet attached to each other.
Attach the other side of the cabinet to the top board in the same manner. Make sure the angle is square. Attach the bottom board to the sides with angle brackets. You now have the frame of the cabinet. Drive finishing nails or brads from the outside to attach the pieces to each other for more stability. Insert shelves and secure with angle brackets and screws.
Attach the back of the cabinet with brads or finishing nails, taking care not to hit any of the screws, brads or nails you've already placed. Bracket the back of the cabinet to the frame to prevent the frame of the cabinet from separating from the back.
Stain the cabinet and cleat as desired. Follow manufacturer's instructions and allow for drying time.
Hold one piece of sliding door track with the grooves down, place it against the underside of the top board of the cabinet, near the front edge of the board, and screw it into place. Hold the bottom track with the grooves up and position it in the bottom part of the cabinet. Start the screws on the track's hardware, but do not tighten.
Attach knobs to the mirrors. Slide the left-hand mirror into the grooves in the tracks, and all the way to the left side of the cabinet frame. Slide the right-hand mirror into place in its track and push it to the left-hand side as well. If mirrors and tracks are in the right position and mirrors slide smoothly, then very carefully tighten the hardware on the bottom track.
Attach trim if desired by using brad gun or finishing nails and hammer. Place a brad or nail about every 12 inches. Near corners, be careful not to hit any other brads, nails or screws.
Locate wall studs with stud finder. Mark location of the studs with a pencil, making marks above the location where the top edge of the cabinet is going to be and below where the bottom of the cabinet will be.
Draw a line across the wall where the bottom of the cabinet should be. Hold the 1-by-2-inch board (the cleat) up against the wall, stained side out, with the top edge of the cleat on the line. Drive a screw through the cleat and into a stud. Check for level, and drive another screw through the cleat and into another stud.
Have your helpers lift the cabinet into place on the cleat. Drive 3-inch screws through the back of the cabinet and into the studs. Drive one screw for every 4.54 Kilogram of estimated weight of the cabinet and contents.
Tips and warnings
- Place screws only in studs, not through the drywall into empty space.
- Shelves can be made to be adjustable by drilling shallow holes and using movable shelf pins instead of attaching shelves permanently to frame.
- Whenever using power tools, especially saws, use protective eyewear.
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