A good drawing table can be adjusted to raise before you for freehand drawing, and lowered for involved work. Supported by a fair stand, the table turns to suit your needs. By placing the drawing platform in just the right place, you set a tilt best for the hand's touch. The even drawing surface makes your art pieces clear to the view so you can lay out your works in a good order. Create a table with wood, bolts and wing nuts.
- Skill level:
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Things you need
- 3/4 inch by 5 feet by 4 feet plywood (pine, cedar or oak)
- Two 3/4 inch by 1 inch by 9 foot boards (pine, cedar or oak)
- 1 inch by 4 inch by 4 foot board
- 1 and 1/2 inch by 3 foot by 2 foot board
- 1 and 1/2 inch by 5 inch by 4 foot board
- 1 inch by 3 inch by 8 foot board
- 1 inch by 3 inch by 8 foot board
- 2 bolts, 3 inches long
- 2 wing nuts
- Wood screws, 24
- Wood glue
- Tape measure
- 80 grit sandpaper
- 120 grit sandpaper
Lay out the piece cuts. Mark out in pencil the 4 foot 3 inch by 3 foot table piece on the plywood. On the 9 foot boards, draw four table trim pieces with paired 45 degree angles; two pieces are 4 foot 5 inches and two 3 feet 2 inches. On the 4 inch board, make two 1 foot 11 inch supports.
For the two 1 and 1/2 inch thick stand ends, draw two 2 foot 4 inch by 9 inch ends on the 3 foot by 2 foot board. Lay out the base support 3 feet 5 inches long on the 5 inch wide board. Mark off the two posts at 3 feet 5 inches on the first 8 foot board. Line in two frame cross supports, 3 feet 3 inches long, on the second 8 foot board.
Saw out the pieces. Cut out all the pieces along the marks. Sand each piece smooth with 80 grit, then 120 grit sand paper.
Shape the stand ends, posts and table supports. The stand ends involve cutting some turns. Draw in and saw out a wide bell shape on the two pieces that have a 5-inch wide top, an 11-inch wide middle and a 2 foot 4-inch wide base.
Round a semicircle on the top on the posts. Drill a hole a for bolt to set in 1 and 1/2 inches from the top at the post middle. Angle the two table supports by making the top edge 1 foot 11 inches long and the bottom edge 1 foot 4 inches long, 3 inches in from left. Drill bolt holes at 12 inches from the left, 1 and 1/2 inches above the bottom.
Assemble the frame and base. Join two frame ends into a base by connecting a horizontal 5-inch base board to both ends; attach each end to the board with screws at 1 and 1/2 inches above the bell bottoms.
Make the frame by joining the two posts with two cross supports. Place the horizontal cross support 9 inches up from the post bottom. Place the vertical cross support at 2 feet.
Set the frame in the base. Place the two posts on top of the base support and screw to the stand ends.
Assemble the table. On the table bottom, place the two supports 3 feet 3 inches apart. The 45 degree angles face the table top back. The support fronts lay on a line at 5 inches from the front table top edge. Attach each with two screws, one in 5 inches from front and one in 6 inches from the back. Glue on the four trim pieces to frame the table top.
Place the table on the stand. Align the table support and post holes. From the inside, send a bolt through each hole and secure with wing nuts.
Sand, stain and finish.
Tips and warnings
- • To tilt the table loosen the wings nuts, adjust to the right tilt and tighten the nuts.
- • Saw fine cuts. Flush faces fit nicely together.
- • Give the table a fine flat finish that does not scratch under drawing pencils and pens.
- • Add a pen and pencil holder by cutting 2 feet 4 inches from the 3/4 inch by 1 inch wood. Glue the holder to the centre front edge of the table top, the wide face against the table frame, so 1/2 inch stands out from the table top.
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