Brick pointing styles
brick wall image by Jim Mills from Fotolia.com
Brick pointing is when you repair crumbling or eroding mortar joints. The process --which involves placing mortar between the joints in brickwork -- is also known as jointing, repointing and tuckpointing.
"Masonry Magazine" says that when repointing older brickwork, match the style of the new joints with that of the old ones and to use the appropriate tools to do this. There are several different styles of brick pointing and each is made a certain way.
A raked joint is made with a raking block, which the Family Handyman website makes by hammering a 6d box nail into a small 2.5 x 5 cm (1 x 2 inch) board so that it is the same depth as the old joints. Take the raking block and use it to remove the mortar until it is 6 mm (1/4 inch) below the brick.
- Brick pointing is when you repair crumbling or eroding mortar joints.
- A raked joint is made with a raking block, which the Family Handyman website makes by hammering a 6d box nail into a small 2.5 x 5 cm (1 x 2 inch) board so that it is the same depth as the old joints.
Named for its concave, "V" look, the V-Joint is formed with a brick jointer called a V-joint slicker. In its website, the tool company Bon states that this is an effective joint for moisture resistance, along with concave and weathered joints.
Cut off excess mortar with a brick trowel to create a flush joint. This will create a smooth joint that is the same depth as the bricks. Family Handyman recommends this joint for repointing brick sills, ledges, and other horizontal structures in order to improve and promote drainage.
A concave joint is "U" shaped and is made using a convex-shaped slicker.
Bon's website lists the weathered joint as one of the most time consuming to make, as it must be worked from below. The weathered joint is angled from the top with a tuck pointing trowel, creating something that looks like a slash mark (/), with the depth of the mortar increasing toward the upper brick.
- Cut off excess mortar with a brick trowel to create a flush joint.
- The weathered joint is angled from the top with a tuck pointing trowel, creating something that looks like a slash mark (/), with the depth of the mortar increasing toward the upper brick.
As its name implies, the beaded joint is convex and creates a "bead" of mortar that protrudes beyond the brick. "Simple Stonescaping" states, "Beaded joints, typically seen on granite walls and foundations of Craftsman-era houses, form a protective barrier against weather deterioration and saturation on the joints that hold the stone. They are shaped with a tool called a beader"
The struck joint is the opposite of the weathered joint, looking like a backslash () between two bricks, although both are made with a trowel. "A Treatise On Architecture And Building Construction" advises that all outside brickwork have struck joints, which does not allow water to settle in the joint and steep into the mortar.
This decorative joint is formed with a grapevine slicker that has a central rib. The joint is flat, but has what Online Tips calls a "deep u-shaped shadow line in the centre."
An extruded or "squeezed" joint is made naturally from excess mortar that is squeezed out from between two bricks.
Carrie Jane has been writing since 2004, when she started interviewing local veterans for a regional newspaper. Since then, she has written for various publications, from scholarly journals to online magazines. Jane graduated with honors from Amherst College, earning a Bachelor of Arts in English, and works in the publishing industry.