Contact the local utilities and have the property flagged. Also flag any sprinkler systems or low lighting wiring. Flag your septic system if applicable.

Check your property plat for any easements or restriction.

Determine the new location for the shed. Look to see if there are any site conditions that may be in the way. These may be tree roots or limbs, low spots that flood or stay soggy, fences or trees that make it hard to access the shed.

Prepare the new pad, the site to which the shed is being moved. Make sure it is level.

Empty the shed and add 2 by 4 lumber cross-bracing to the interior of the shed. The bracing should run from the top plate on one wall across the shed and down to the bottom of the studs on the opposite wall. This should be done on each side of the shed creating a "X".

Use a shovel to dig out the corners of the shed. Dig a hole deep enough to fit a floor jack, available at any auto parts store, and a piece of 3/4-inch plywood large enough to support the jack.

Jack up one side of the shed at a time. Start on one of the sides that the skids will be running. Using the floor jacks, raise the shed about 9 inches and add two 4-by-4 pressure-treated skids, running in the direction of travel, if the shed is not already equipped with skids. Secure the skids in place using timber screws.

Place three sections of schedule 40 PVC beneath the skids, evenly spaced, running in the opposite direction of the skids.

Lower the shed onto the PVC pipe slowly.

Roll the shed slowly to the new pad. As one piece of PVC is left behind move it to the front and keep repeating until done.

Lower the shed onto the new prepared pad.