Most embroidery machines have the traditional set of hoop attachments and preset embroidery design patterns. However, what most embroidery machine manuals do not express or illustrate is what can happen to delicate fabrics when not properly hooped or stabilized. By hooping your fabric correctly, selecting the right weight stabilizer, using the appropriate needle and choosing the right type of design, you can avoid damage and embroider with ease.
- Skill level:
- Moderate
Instructions
Things you need
- Embroidery machine
- Embroidery hoop attachment
- Embroidery stabilizer
- Embroidery needles
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1
Choose the appropriate design for the type of fabric selected to embroider. When working with lightweight, delicate fabrics--such as translucent or sheer types--it is best to use an open design detailing outlines or pattern accents. For example, if your embroidery is a flower, embroider the outline, inner flower details, leaf lines and stem. High-nap or looped delicate fabrics, such as french terry, will do best with a heavy or dense embroidery.
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2
Select the appropriate weight fabric for the type of embroidery design and stitch count. Know your fabric's properties and characteristics. Delicate fabrics do not necessarily mean lightweight. "Delicate" pertains to any fabric that requires extra care when applying an embellishment technique such as embroidery. Low-stitch-count embroideries are best with sheer fabrics or any fabric that has natural drape properties, such as organza. Use medium-stitch-count embroideries with stretchy fabrics such as interlock and high-stitch-count fabrics for high-nap or looped fabrics. Know your fabric weave. For example, a loosely woven fabric will cause the fabric weave to open and pull apart once the embroidery needle begins to puncture the fabric.
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3
Select the right type stabilizer. A stabilizer is a separate sheet used to set or "stabilize" your fabric when hooped during the embroidery process. It keeps your fabric from shifting during embroidery, and it will also keep the fabric taut. Choose from a cutaway, tearaway or water-soluble stabilizers. Cutaway and tearaway stabilizers come in light, medium and heavy weights. Cutaways are also available as fusible iron-ons, and the tearaways are available in a wet or peel-and-stick sheet. Your fabric weight and type will ultimately determine the type of stabilizer you use. Remember that the lighter your fabric weight, the heavier your stabilizer needs to be. For example, heavyweight, water-soluble stabilizers are generally used for transparent fabrics such as freestanding laces, organzas or sheer silks. Lightweight, water-soluble stabilizers are normally used for high-nap fabrics. Determine whether your fabric can sustain several washings, which are required for the water-soluble stabilizer to eventually wash away and disappear.
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4
Take extra time hooping your fabric. The embroidery hoop generally separates into two parts, a top hoop and a bottom hoop. Hooping occurs when you place your fabric in between the two hoops and lock the top hoop over the bottom hoop. Your hooped fabric will appear firm and taut. Embroidery machines have different types of hoop attachments. Loosen the top hoop and place your stabilizer on top of your bottom hoop, and then place your fabric layer. Set your top hoop over the layers and hoop, gently avoiding stretching your fabric. Align your horizontal and vertical hoop axes. It is beneficial to loosen your hoops sufficiently prior to hooping to avoid unnecessarily stretching the fabric. For instance, interlock is a medium-weight fabric that has a natural stretch property. The interlock will significantly stretch out in appearance around the hoop area, and the fabric will not recover its original appearance. The opposite factor applies to knits with four-way stretch, such as Lycra. Stretch it within the hoop in the direction it stretches on your body. The stabilizer will have to be applied in the same direction to avoid puckering once the hoop is released.
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5
Change your embroidery needle and tension to accommodate your fabric weight. The higher the stitch count, the more punctures will go through your fabric during embroidery. The type of stabilizer chosen will also effect your needle. For example, a stick-and-peel stabilizer will sometimes adhere to your needle. You will have to clean and wipe off your needle with a sewing cleaning solvent to remove any sticky residue.
Tips and warnings
- Practice with a series of different stabilizers and fabric scraps prior to working with your project fabric. Note the effects of the wash-away stabilizers, iron-on cutaways and tearaways with different delicate fabrics and textures.
- Hoop your stabilizer and spray a sewing adhesive onto the stabilizer. Place your fabric in the center of your hooped area and onto the adhesive. Embroider your design with care, and make sure your fabric does not shift. This works best with hard-to-reach garment areas and on heavyweight, napped or pile fabrics.
- Delicate fabrics can become stretched or have severe markings at the hooped area, which can diminish your overall embroidery design.
