Tools for Double Glazing

Written by josienita borlongan
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Tools for Double Glazing
A measuring caliper helps measure the thickness of insulated glass. (caliper image by laviniaparscuta from Fotolia.com)

Double glazing creates a middle buffer by sandwiching two glass window panes together to provide better insulation. Double glazing tools used by glaziers, or people who work on window glass, include common and specialised tools. Common tools are those used not only for double glazing, but also for other trades as well; specialised tools are those used specifically for double glazing. These tools are essential to making and repairing double-glazed glass.

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Measuring Caliper

A tool for measuring the thickness of sealed units, a measuring caliper includes a sighting part with a front sight, rear sight and a sight tube where a user can take angled sightings of insulating glass while the device touches the surface of the glass. A separate reflective part located on the far side of the insulating glass reflects the view of the target part attached to the movable slide of the device. Adjusting the movable slide helps align the target reflection with the sight. Use the measuring caliper to measure the thickness of single, two or more insulation glass sheets. The traditional measuring caliper has graduated markings to show the measurements while a more advanced version incorporates digital displays.

You can opt for a glass thickness gauge that uses laser reflections to determine the thickness of glass and the air space separating the pieces of glass. It reads the laser reflected off the surface of the glass that appears on the graduated scale of the gauge.

Glazing Bar

Use a glazing bar to seal each side of two glazing units. A glazing bar has an internal passage that communicates with the glazing bar's end. At the edge, you'll see a trap that collects any condensation that runs down on one side of the glazing unit. The collected condensation passes into the internal passage and later drains away.

Glazing Packers

Also known as glass or flat packers, glazing packers aid in aligning and levelling double-glazed sealed units. The glazing packers help ensure that the double-glazed sealed units are square to the frame and maintain correct distribution of weight. The glazing packers also help keep the double-glazed units tight. During installation, the glazing packers must not block the water drainage.

Glazing Shovel

A glazing shovel allows the installation of double-glazed units to lift windows and doors to prevent dropping and dragging. It acts as a wedge to tighten double-glazed units for glazing windows and doors. A glazing shovel often comes in a form of heavy-duty plastic.

Glass Pane Lifter

Use a glass pane lifter to lift and carry glass. A glass pane lifter has a hollow handle that has a suction cup on each end. Each suction cup includes a suction release tab. Pressing the suction cup gently against the glass will allow it to suction into place. Once secured, the glass pane lifter allows you to lift the glass and carry it carefully for fitting and installation. Releasing the suction tab will release the suction cup's hold.

Rubber Mallet

Use a rubber mallet for refitting the glazing beads. A rubber mallet features a head with a wide surface area made of rubber or urethane used for delivering softer blows compared to mallets made of metal or wood. Wood is the most common choice of material for making the rubber mallet's handle; however, fibreglass and metal handles are also available.

After placing the double glazed unit into the frame, ensure correct positioning on the glass packers. Fit the beads using a rubber mallet starting on one of the shortest lengths. Finally, fit the last bead by bending it into position.

Putty Knife

A putty knife, paint scraper or similar thin-bladed tool is helpful in removing the glazing beads. A putty knife looks like a spatula with a flat blade that has a sturdy handle. Use a putty knife to remove glazing beads by prying between the frames and glazing beads. Lever the centre of one of the longest beads out first; once you have one out the rest are easier to lever out from the open corner.

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