How to Sew Welt Pockets

Written by mary corgney
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Welt pockets are small, flat pockets sewn mostly in men's clothing. They are commonly sewn as breast pockets in men's suits but larger welt pockets can also be sewn into the back pockets of men's clothing. Welt pockets are usually cut horizontally on items of men's clothing but at angle in women's clothing. A welt pocket can have one or two lips. Where there is one lip, it is usually a lower lip. The dimension of the piece of cloth used for a welt pocket may vary, but they are all similarly sewn.

Skill level:
Moderately Easy

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Things you need

  • Cloth material measuring 3 inches by 8 inches
  • Pair of scissors
  • Marker
  • Ruler
  • Sewing machine
  • Smoothing iron

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  1. 1

    Cut out a piece of cloth material measuring 8 inches long and 3 inches wide with a pair of scissors. Draw a line across the length of the piece of cloth and 1 inch from the bottom using a ruler and marker. Draw a second line parallel to and 1/2 inch above the first. Draw another two lines down the width, but 2 inches from each end of the fabric and intersecting the first two.

  2. 2

    Place the piece of cloth or welt on the sewing path of a sewing machine. Line the first, and later the second, parallel line under the drill hole. Sew the two parallel lines up to the intersecting lines marked 2 inches from the ends.

  3. 3

    Fold the welt on itself along the two sewn parallel lines. Flip the cloth over on its face and press it with a smoothing iron. Flip the welt back on its marked face. Cut a slit in the middle of the sewn area, then cut at a sharp angle from the slit line to the corners of the boxed area.

  4. 4

    Turn over the welt and pull the lips of the slit back. Pull the seam of the welt open along the edges of the slit. Fold the longer side of the welt to match and cover the opened seam.

  5. 5

    Turn out the welt and line the triangle head of the centre slit under the sewing needle of the sewing machine. Stitch down the head to the piece of welt underneath it. Sew the welt into the pocket bag of the cloth.

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