Zippers are a challenging addition even for experienced sewers. Invisible zippers appear as simple seams in the fabric with a small pull to open the zipper at the top. Invisible zippers are difficult to install correctly and are often not invisible when installed wrong. Adding lining to the inside of the garment makes installing a zipper even more difficult. But once you learn the technique behind installing invisible zippers, you will never use an obvious old-fashioned zipper again.
- Skill level:
Things you need
- 2 pieces of fabric
- Invisible zipper
- Sewing machine
- 2 pieces of lining
Unzip your zipper and place it on the fabric so the wrong side of the fabric and zipper are facing out. Line up one side of the zipper with your desired seam and pin it into place.
Sew along the wrong side of the zipper, as close to the teeth as you are able. Sew in a straight line and make sure the fabric is taut to avoid puckering. Pin the other side of the zipper and sew into place.
Pull the fabric flat with the good side up and check your invisible zipper for any problems. You should only see the very top of the zipper -- no teeth and no thread. Test the zipper for any snagging on the fabric. If you find any mistakes, tear out the seam and try again. Only proceed with the lining when you are happy with the outside of the garment.
Unzip the zipper and fold the fabric over so you can see your seam and the wrong side of the fabric. Place the lining on top, wrong side down, and line up the zipper with your desired seam. The zipper is now sandwiched between the fabric and lining with all the edges pointing in one direction. Sew the lining to the zipper before you sew it to the fabric.
Sew the lining to the zipper. It is not necessary to sew as close to the teeth as you did for the fabric. Pin the other side of the lining to the zipper and sew into place.
Open the lining and fabric on each side of the zipper so the wrong sides are facing. You should only see the teeth and the pull. Check to make sure the zipper works, and then finish sewing the rest of the lining to the garment.
Tips and warnings
- If your zipper is curled up by the teeth, use an iron to smooth it out.
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