How to Sew a Welt Pocket With a Flap

Written by vivienne montague
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How to Sew a Welt Pocket With a Flap
A man's jacket with welt pockets with flaps. (Hemera Technologies/ Images)

Ladies' pockets sewn into a garment appear for the first time in clothing dating from the mid-1800s. Welt pockets with flaps were traditionally used in men's clothing until the 1930s. Today this type of pocket adds a classic look to well-tailored jackets and coats for both men and women. Welting reinforces and stiffens the edges of the pocket to protect against wear. The pocket lies between the outer garment and the lining and is invisible. Adding a flap to the welt provides extra security for pocket contents.

Skill level:
Moderately Challenging

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Things you need

  • Pattern with welt pocket and flap
  • Fabric for pocket
  • Fabric for flap
  • Interfacing
  • Chalk
  • Scissors
  • Sewing machine

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  1. 1

    Mark the pocket stitching line on the outside of the garment. Cut out the fabric for the pocket flap. Add interfacing and sew the flap together except for the long straight edge. Turn the flap right-side out and press. Baste the long edge together and trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch.

    How to Sew a Welt Pocket With a Flap
    Keep your iron hot and handy to press as you go. (Thinkstock Images/Comstock/Getty Images)
  2. 2

    Interface the welt. Fold the welt in half with the wrong sides together. Press. Baste the welt edges together along the seam line. Trim seam allowance to 1/4 inch.

  3. 3

    Reinforce the pocket stitching lines on the garment. Stitch the flap to the right side of the garment, matching the flap seam line to the upper stitching line of the pocket. Machine baste along the flap seam line.

  4. 4

    Pin the welt along the lower side of the pocket seam line. The raw edges of the flap and the welt should meet at the centre. Machine baste the seam to the seam line. Pull the thread ends on to the wrong side and knot them.

  5. 5

    Pin the pocket to the front, over the flap and welt, with right sides together. Match the markings to the stitching lines and stitch together except for the ends. Slash the garment and pocket separately halfway between the stitching. Clip diagonally into the corners. Do not cut the welt or flap.

  6. 6

    Turn the pocket and the ends of the welt through the slash to the inside and press. Stitch the triangular ends at the opening to the pocket and welt ends.

  7. 7

    Stitch the right sides of the pocket sections together, leaving the garment free. Stitch again a short distance from the seam stitching and trim near the second stitching. Top stitch the garment through all fabric layers close to the flap. Press.

Tips and warnings

  • Take your time. Precision in measuring and stitching is essential for a professional finish.
  • Iron as you go.

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