A homemade outboard motor stand and hoist can be managed with a sturdy shade tree, a block and tackle and some angle iron. You'll need either welding skills or access to a nearby welding shop that can do the cutting and welding for you. Outboards need to be suspended vertically while you are working on them. The cost is minimal compared to the risk of destroying a motor by trying to lift it off the transom by hand and leaning it up against a work table.
- Skill level:
Things you need
- Pulley block and tackle
- 50 feet 1/2 inch rope
- Lift straps with hooks
- 6 angle iron pieces, 2 by 2 inches by 4 feet.
- 2 angle iron pieces, 2 by 2 inches by 2 feet
- Welding machine and rods or welding shop
- Grinder and cutting torch
- 1 board, 2 by 6 inches by 2 feet long
- Drill and half inch bit
- 4 carriage bolts, 7/16 inch by 2-1/2 inches
- Socket wrench set
- Adjustable wrench
Attach the pulley block to a tree limb or to a very strong garage ceiling joist. Park the boat underneath. Feed the rope through the block and the tackle pulley and position the hoist directly above the outboard motor.
Attach the lift hooks to the lifting eyes on the motor. You may have to remove the motor cover to get them. Sometimes they are removed after manufacture. In that case you'll need to buy replacement lift eyes from your motor dealer. If there are no holes for lift eyes, wrap two straps around the engine housing with one hook on either side attached to the hook on the tackle pulley.
Unclamp the motor and disconnect the electrical and fuel lines. Remove the nuts that secure the steering to the motor. As you lift the motor, you will guide the steering rods out of their motor mounts. Pull the boat out from under the motor.
Position two 4ft. long pieces of angle iron side by side flat on the ground. Weld two 2-ft. angle iron pieces across the ends to make a rectangle. Weld two 4-ft. angle iron pieces upright on one of the long sides of the frame.
Set the base of one upright on a corner of the base frame and the other 2-1/2 feet away on the same long side of the frame. Weld the bottom of the uprights to the base frame and weld their tops together. Do the same with the last two 4-ft. long angle iron pieces on the long side opposite the first uprights.
Drill two half inch holes two inches apart, centred in the top 3-1/2 inches of the uprights welded to the corners of the base frame. Drill matching holes in the two-by-six and bolt it to the outside of the uprights facing away from the centre of the base.
Set the motor stand underneath the suspended motor. Lower it onto the wooden crossmember with the motor toward the centre of the frame so that it tilts slightly backward. Clamp the motor to the wooden crossmember, and it's ready to work on.
Tips and warnings
- Don't forget to wear welding gloves, bonnet and protective clothing if you do the welding yourself.
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