The Stock MG-B produces approximately 100 HP. Adding a supercharger to this fun, if slightly underpowered, collector car increases power to the 135-HP range.
Installing a super charger is not technically difficult but requires the removal of almost all the components of your car's coolant and fuel systems and the replacement of some parts with upgrades.
The supercharger should be an upgrade to a sound engine, not a means of boosting horse power to a failing engine. A mechanic or skilled amateur can complete the installation in about nine hours.
- Skill level:
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Things you need
- Supercharger Kit
- digital or Polaroid camera
- Flat Blade Screwdriver
- Phillips Screwdriver
- 5/16in socket
- 7/16in socket
- 1/2in socket
- 9/16in socket
- 7/8in socket
- 1-5/16in socket
- 13/16in spark plug wrench
- 1/2in swivel socket will make installation easier.
- 10mm socket
- 6MM Allen socket
- 1/4in ratchet
- 3/8in ratchet.
- 1/2in drive torque wrench
- 1/2in drive breaker bar
- 1/2in impact wrench
- 1/2 Wrench
- 7/16 Wrench
- 9/16 Wrench
- 7/8IN Wrench
- 13mm Wrench
- 1/2in ratcheting wrench
- 7/16in tubing (flare nut) wrench.
- 6MM Allen wrench
- 7/32in Allen wrench
- 5/32in Allen wrench
- Gasket scraper
- Coal chisel
- Drain pan
- Spark plug feeler gauge
- Timing light
- Electric drill and bits
- Replacement engine coolant
- Wheel chocks or blocks
- Floor jack
- Jack stands
- Reciprocating saw
- Grinding wheel or hand grinder
- Safety glasses
- Shop rags
- Oil dry or cat litter
Disconnect the battery and secure the car with wheel chocks or blocks.
Open the bonnet (removing the bonnet is not necessary but may make the project easier).
Drain engine coolant into drain pan by opening the petcock or loosening the lower radiator hose. Dispose of coolant properly.
Remove upper and lower radiator hoses.
Remove the radiator on years '76 and older. Years 77-80 do not require radiator removal but it will make the project easier.
Remove air cleaners and throttle springs and assemblies. Carefully note and/or photograph spring arrangements on older dual carburettor engines if you are not planning to use the new carburettor provided with the kit.
Remove fuel hoses. Carefully note connections.
Remove the carburettor(s).
Remove carburettor heat shield. On newer models, remove the induction heater from the heat shield and disconnect the electrical connection to the heater. Trace back the connection and disconnect it at its source or cap and tie of the connection. This is a live 12v connection and cannot be left bare.
Loosen hoses and remove the "gulp" valve and smog pump.
Remove heater pipe and hose.
Remove the vacuum source hose for the brake booster from the intake manifold (this applies to newer models only).
Remove clamps and hoses to the air injection rail.
Remove the adjuster bolt for smog pump and loosen the pivot bolt.
Remove the coolant fan, water pump pulley, and drive belt.
Loosen the alternator bolts and remove alternator belt (for newer models only).
Remove the water pump. Clean the gasket surface on the block to prepare for reinstallation. You'll need an upgraded water pump, but most supercharger kits include new water pumps, as well.
Use the coal chisel and hammer to flatten the retaining washer on the crank pulley bolt.
Put the car in gear and set the emergency break. Remove the crank pulley bolt with the 1-5/16 in socket and 1/2 drive breaker bar. Putting the car in gear provides the extra resistance so that the engine doesn't turn.
Remove the crank pulley. You may have to rock the pulley to remove it.
Remove the air injector tubes (intake manifold).
Remove the exhaust manifold. This may require lifting with the floor jack and placement of jack stands. Make sure the wheels are properly chocked before working under any car.
Install the upgraded crank pulley. If you need to tap it on with a hammer, cover the pulley with a rag to protect the new aluminium crank pulley.
Re-install the retaining washer and crank pulley bolt. Torque the bolt to the supercharger kit manufacturer specifications. Use the coal chisel to fold up one side of the retaining washer, locking the bolt in place. Use the rag to protect the new aluminium crank pulley.
Install the upgraded water pump. You do not need to reinstall the smog pump bracket. The smog pump is not used with superchargers.
The exhaust manifold requires modification by removing the bolt tabs on the inner four fastening surfaces. Remove the bolt tabs with the reciprocating saw. Grind the surfaces smooth the grinding wheel or hand grinder. Always wear safety glasses when using grinders. Aftermarket manifolds are available that do not require modification are available.
Clean the block of old gasket material and install the new gasket and the modified exhaust manifold.
Remove the timing cover bolts at position 12, 1, and 3. replace them with the provided idler pulley mounting plate. Install the upper idler pulley on the plate.
Evaluate your alternator. The serpentine belt places more stress on the alternator bearings. If the bearings are making noise they will not last long in the supercharger system.
Remove the alternator pulley bolt and pulley. Replace the pulley with the aluminium serpentine pulley from the supercharger kit. Reinstall the alternator pulley bolt.
Install the tensioner assembly to the bottom ear of the alternator. Check the tensioner alignment with a straight edge. Space as necessary.
Most of the supercharger kits come with a replacement carburettor. They are shipped dry and will need to be lubricated prior to installation.
Mount the carburettor on the supercharger assembly.
Bolt the supercharger/carburettor assembly into place. The side of the supercharger assembly fits in place of the original intake manifold.
The bolt and washer overlap both the exhaust manifold and the new supercharger assembly. Extra spacers may be required to adjust for difference in thickness between the exhaust and intake manifolds.
Install the supercharger support bracket from the front of the assembly to the idler pulley plate, shim as necessary.
Install the lower idler pulley on the idler pulley plate.
Torque support bolts to manufacturer specifications.
Reconnect the fuel line to the carburettor.
Install new lower radiator hose.
Install heater hose and heater pipe.
Install upper heater hose.
Install coolant pulley and fan. Later models with electric fans can install the pulley alone.
Install the air cleaner and the spacer provided with the kit.
Connect throttle and choke cables.
Install and tension the new serpentine belt.
Take car out of gear and turn engine clockwise using 1-5/16 inch socket and breaker to ensure that belt is not rubbing.
Connect vacuum lines to supercharger assembly.
Connect brake booster to supercharger assembly via a provided check valve.
Reconnect exhaust lines to the manifold.
Reinstall radiator, connect upper and lower radiator hoses.
Tighten all coolant hose clamps. Refill coolant.
Double check that all fuel lines are tight.
Reconnect battery, and turn on ignition without starting car. Fuel system will pressurise. Turn off ignition and check for fuel leaks.
Pull choke to full and start car without stepping on gas.
Ease the engine to 2200 RPM and maintain until the engine is up to normal operating temperature. Check the engine for any leaks.
Adjust idle to 900 to 950 RPM.
Check engine timing.
Shut down and allow engine to cool. Check coolant level.
Close or reinstall bonnet.
Remove car from jack stands.
Remove wheel chocks.
Tips and warnings
- As with any major mechanical repair, check the engine frequently during the first 500 miles for leaks and fluid levels.
- The supercharger pushes large volumes of
- air into the engine. You will have to use the choke
- more frequently and for longer periods of time than
- you may be used to. Do not over-rev the engine until the car is up to normal operating temperatures.
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