Snowboarders can find themselves with no way to gain enough speed to do the tricks and jumps they want when riding on level terrain. Some snowboarders resort to slinging each other into jumps, but this barely makes a difference in speed. All of that effort is unnecessary when you construct your own drop-in ramp. A drop-in ramp must be collapsible and light so you can drag it to different areas where a speed boost is needed.
- Skill level:
Things you need
- 8 eight foot long two by four inch boards
- 1 four by eight foot 1 inch thick sheet of plywood
- 1 27 by 27 inch plywood board
- 8 washers
- 8 wing nuts
- 8 four inch bolts
- 4 bolts 1 & 1/2 inches long
- Screwdriver bit
- Circular saw
- 5/8 inch drill bit
- Tape measure
- 2 metal elbow brackets
- 3 inch strips of old carpet or thin strips of wood
- 4 nuts
- Adjustable wrench
Cut two-by-four inch boards into four, five-foot long boards to serve as the legs.
Cut two-by-four inch boards into nine two-foot long pieces to act as cross braces between the legs.
Lay down two of the five foot long boards parallel to each other and then lay three of the two foot boards across them like a ladder. The two foot boards should be evenly spaced.
Screw the three two-foot boards into the two five-foot boards in the shape of a ladder. Use two screws on each side of the ladder. This is the front legs of your drop in ramp.
Lay down the other two five-foot long boards parallel to each other and then lay two two-foot long boards across them about eight inches from the ends.
Screw the two smaller boards into the two five-foot long boards like a small ladder, but with two rungs this time. Use two screws on each side of the ladder. This is the rear legs of the drop in ramp.
Drill four holes into the sides of the front and back legs 12 inches from the top and bottom, making sure the holes are big enough for the bolts.
Drill one hole through each end of the four remaining two foot boards. Drill the holes about and three-quarter inches from the ends of the boards.
Place the four cross braces on the sides of the front and back legs before threading bolts into the holes through the inside of the legs and out through the cross braces.
Thread the washers and wing nuts onto the end of all eight bolts and tighten them by hand. This should leave you with a four legged structure standing on its own. The wing nuts make it possible to loosen and fold up the drop-in ramp when on the move.
Cut four 27-inch long pieces of two-by-four inch board.
Screw the four 27-inch boards along the four sides of the bottom of the 27-by-27 inches plywood board to create a frame around the sides. This framed board sits on top of the four leg structure as the upper platform.
Cut the four-by-eight inch plywood sheet into a 78-inch long by 24-inches wide board to act as the drop-in ramp.
Cut two 78 inch pieces of two-by-four inch board and then cut 45-degree angles off the ends of the two boards to allow for the angles of the ramp.
Screw the 78-inch boards along the undersides of your 78-inches long by 24-inches wide ramp to act as rails which stabilise the bottom of the drop-in ramp.
Drill four holes through the top of the ramp.
Bolt the elbow brackets to the underside of the ramp by inserting the four bolts through the four holes and tightening the four nuts on the end of the bolts with the adjustable wrench.
Hang the other ends of the metal elbow brackets on the top rang between the two front posts. The ramp should simply hook onto the top rang support board and then come off when you are on the move again.
Screw the strips of old carpet or thin wood across the ramp at different levels to help the snow stay on the ramp better.
Tips and warnings
- Use waterproof paint to make your drop in ramp last longer.
- Always wear a safety helmet when using a drop-in ramp.
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