A wall-mounted folding table saves space in a small room. The table is there when you need it, and folds out of the way when you don't. Most wall-mounted folding tables use a hinged bracket to raise and lower a wooden table top that folds against the wall when not in use. The trouble with this, especially in a room where every square foot counts, is you're left with unusable space and a piece of wood floating against your wall. Preserve valuable wall space with a table design, adapted from a Family Handyman magazine online workbench plan, that, when not in use, becomes a ledge that can be used to display art or hold other small items.
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Things you need
- 2-by-4 lumber, 10 feet
- 2-by-2 lumber, 52 inches
- 3/4-inch plywood, 30 by 28 inches
- 30-inch continuous hinge
- 3/4-inch pipe flanges, 2
- 3/4-inch, 29-inch pipes with threaded ends, 2
- 3/4-inch rubber feet, 2
- Circular saw
- Drill bit
- 4-inch wood screws
- 4-inch wall anchors
- 1/2-inch wood screws
- 2 hook-and-eye closures
Cut your 2-by-4s into four pieces with your circular saw--two 28 inches, one 30 inches and the other 26 inches. Lay the pieces out in a square (on the 2-inch edges) so the two 28-inch pieces are opposite, the 30-inch piece is positioned across their the tops and the 26-inch piece is between the 28-inch pieces about 2 inches up from their ends. Mark where the pieces meet, drill and screw together each piece with two 4-inch screws.
Lay the continuous hinge--sometimes called a piano hinge--along the 2-inch edge of the 30-inch 2-by-4 at the top of the box. The straight edge, opposite the hinged joint, should be flush with the top of the 2-inch edge. Screw it into place along the length of the top with the screws that came with the hinge.
Stand up your box against the wall where you want the table. The 2-inch legs of the box should be at the bottom. When it is in its final location, draw a line in pencil on the wall against the bottom edge of the 2-by-4 at the top of the box. Set the box aside.
Cut the 2-by-2 lumber into two 26-inch pieces. Drill at least three holes evenly across the length of each of the 2-by-2s. Line up the top edge of the upper 2-by-2, and the bottom edge of the lower piece, along the pencil line on the wall. Transfer the holes to the wall with a pencil and install your wall anchors at those points according to their package instructions. Attach the 2-by-2s to the wall using the screws that came with the wall anchors.
Put the box back in place (with the hinge facing out), so it rests on the upper 2-by-2. Fasten the box to the wall by screwing it into the 2-by-2 cleats with 4-inch wood screws.
Lay the plywood on the floor with the "bad" side (if any) up. Put one pipe flange 3 inches in from each corner on one of the 30-inch sides. Fasten them to the plywood with four 1/2-inch wood screws each. Put the rubber feet on the non-threaded ends of the pipes.
Open up the hinge. Stand up the piece of plywood so it is against the box. The end with the flanges should be against the floor and the flanges should be facing the box and not visible. Line the plywood up with the hinge, propping it up on scrap wood if necessary. Screw the other side of the hinge into the edge of the plywood. The plywood should lay flush against the box. Attach hook-and-eye hardware near the bottom outside edges on each side to keep the box securely closed when not in use.
Raise the plywood and screw the pipes into the flanges. These are your table legs. When you're done with the table, unscrew the legs and stow them diagonally inside the box. Shut the lid and fasten with the hook-and-eye closures.
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