Lace cap wigs are a great alternative to traditional full cap wigs because of their more natural look. Loose hair strands being ventilated through lace can simulate the look of a real hairline and scalp, giving the wearer versatility of style with the ability to part the hair in different ways. By making your own lace cap wig, you can save yourself from spending hundreds to thousands of dollars purchasing one. You can also get into the lucrative business of making them for others. It is a tedious and time-consuming task, but worth the investment. Decide whether you want a full lace cap wig or a lace front wig, which can take half the time as the full lace cap, but with the same natural look and versatile wear.
Braid or wrap your hair (or the client's hair) to prepare for measurement and outlining of the hairline. Smooth a large piece of clear cling film over your head, securing the ends under your jaw. With your black magic marker, draw the outline of your hairline and the placement of your ears on the saran wrap. Draw another line from ear to ear if you are doing a lace frontal cap wig. Continue the outline of your hair line around your nape if you are doing a full lace cap wig. This area will serve as the size and shape of the lace you will be ventilating hair through. Before removing the cling film, apply tape within the border of your outline until the area is completely covered with tape. This process will hold the shape of your outline to be transferred to the block head. Carefully remove the cling film from your head and trim the excess wrap from your outline.
Pin the outline to the head block with ball pins. Placement of your pins should be on the very edges of the outline, along the black magic marker, securing all sides to the head block. Cut a strip of lace sized to have an extra inch or more around the entire perimeter of your outline. Place the lace over the outline, ensuring there is excess on all sides. Using the straight pins, pin the lace to the head block along the hairline, placing the pins close enough to almost touch each other until the lace is completely pinned over the hairline.
Begin ventilating the bulk hairs through the lace using the ventilator holder and needle, starting at the hairline. This process closely mirrors a rug maker's latch hooking on a canvas. Take a small amount of the bulk hairs and fold the hair exactly in half in one hand with your forefinger in the middle of the loop. With your other hand, stick the needle through the lace. Attach one strand of hair from your hand by the loop to the end of the needle. Pull the hair only halfway through the lace with the needle. Take the loose ended side of the hair strand and pull through the loop end until the hair has been knotted into the lace. Repeat this process until the entire interior of the outline is covered with the hair.
Remove the straight pins holding the lace onto the block head. If you chose to make a full lace cap wig, your wig is complete and you are ready to attach the wig to your head and style. If you have chosen to save time by making the lace front wig, fit the adjustable mesh weaving cap on your head or your clients's head. Place your finished lace half to your head, (or client's head), lining up the hairline. Where the lace ends is where you will need to begin sewing the weft human hair to the mesh weaving cap. Once this placement is determined, starting at the nape, begin sewing the hair by the wefts using the weaving needle and thread to the mesh cap. Continue until the last weft of hair meets the ventilated hair through the lace.
Sew the lace half of your wig to the mesh weaving cap half of your wig. First, fold the excess lace from the ear to ear end in half to create a sturdier foundation for attaching to the mesh cap. You may also need to fold a bit of the mesh cap under if the top reaches too far into the lace area. You want your weft hair to meet the lace hair to ensure full coverage. With the hair side facing down on both sides, attach the lace excess on top of the mesh and sew until it is securely attached. The wig is then ready to be attached and styled.
If you make a lace front cap wig with the weft hair sewn onto a mesh wig cap in the back, be sure the bulk hair texture and colour matches the weft hairs' texture and colour. Try sticking with the same brand to ensure this. French lace is very durable and can blend to appear invisible to simulate the look of scalp but has a bit of a rougher feel than Swiss lace. Swiss lace is more comfortable and undetectable but it is also more delicate to handle.