A storage sheds can be a great asset to a homeowner when the garage gets crowded with outdoor tools and equipment. Storage sheds don’t need to be complicated and can usually be constructed by DIY homeowners. A 10 foot by 10 foot storage shed is a typical size for most back yards as it provides ample room for storing items but doesn’t take a large part of the yard.
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Things you need
- Treated lumber, 2 inch by 6 inch, 86 feet
- Three sheets 3/4-inch plywood, 4 feet by 10 feet
- Framing lumber, 2 inch by 4 inch, 575 feet
- Four sheets of 1/2-inch plywood, 4 feet by 10 feet
- Lumber, 2 inch by 3 inch, 60 feet
- Metal roofing
- Ridge capping
- Barge board
- Cladding underlay
- Galvanised nails
- Roofing nails
- Stapels and staple gun
- Wood siding
- Five premade 10-foot rafters
- Pre-hung door
- Wood screws
- Measuring tape
Cut six floor joists from the 2x6 treated lumber with the saw. Each joist should measure 9 feet 9 inches. The width of the side beams that the joists attach to make the overall floor equal 10 feet.
Cut the side beams the joists will be secured to from 2 by 6 treated lumbers. The two side beams should be 10 feet long.
Attach the end joists to the side beams. The edge of the joist should be flush with the edges of the side beams. Secure the joists with wood screws through the side beam into the end of the joist to create a 10 foot by 10 foot square.
Space the remaining four joists evenly within the floor frame. Secure the joists to the side beams with wood screws. Make sure the joists are flush with the edge of the side beams before securing them.
Screw the 3/4 inch plywood sheets with the screwdriver to cover the floor with. Secure the plywood with wood screws into the floor joists.
Measure four 10 foot pieces of 2x4 framing lumber and cut to size with the saw. Measure four pieces of 2x4 to 9 foot 2 inch pieces of 2x4 framing lumber and cut to size with the saw. These pieces are the top and bottom of the walls.
Measure and cut six 8 foot studs for each side of the shed except for the wall where the door will be. The door side needs four full-length studs with a 32 inch wide door opening.
Place the top and bottom pieces of the wall on a level surface and place the studs at 2 foot intervals between the top and bottom boards. Secure the studs in place with wood screws.
Frame the door with a 32 inch wide rough opening. Cut a 32 inch long header board from the 2x4 framing wood. Secure it with wood screws at the top of the rough opening for the door and to the studs on either side with wood screws.
Lift the wall frames into place on the shed floor and secure in place with wood screws into the floor of the shed and the adjoining studs at the corners.
Lift the rafters into position and secure them one at a time to the wall frames with galvanised nails. Rafters should be positioned parallel with the door to prevent runoff from interfering with the door.
Screw 1/2 inch plywood sheeting to the rafters to cover the roof.
Measure and cut six purlins, that are 10 feet long from the 2 by 3 lumber. Nail three rows of purlins to each side of the roof. The purlins should be positioned at the edge of the roof, in the middle of the roof, and at the crest of the roof, with a 1 inch overhang from the roof edge on both sides. Purlins are strips of wood used to support the weight of the metal roofing and provide solid location to secure the roofing to.
Nail the barge board to the purlins' one-inch overhang. The barge board helps to direct air over the roof. The edge of the barge board should be flush with the top of the purlins. Allow the barge boards to extend six inches past the end of the roof.
Attach the fascia boards along the sides of the roof between the barge boards with galvanised nails.
Fasten the metal roofing to the purlins with roofing nails. Alternate nailing the metal roofing at the top, middle and bottom purlins with the metal roofing overhanging the bottom purlin by 2-1/2 inches.
Attach the ridge capping to the top purlin on both sides of the roof with roofing nails.
Wrap the exposed walls with a cladding underlay. Secure the underlay to the studs with a staple gun. Cut the opening for the door out of the underlay and secure around the door frame.
Attach the weather-treated siding over the cladding underlay and secure to the studs with galvanised nails. Cut the opening for the door from the siding.
Install the door according to manufacturer's directions.
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