How to sew a collar & yoke to a shirt

Written by vernelle nelson
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How to sew a collar & yoke to a shirt
Sew a collar and yoke onto your shirt with ease (man in shirt and tie 20 image by Christopher Hall from Fotolia.com)

Making a dress shirt with a yoke and collar or even a button-front casual shirt that is meant to be worn with an open collar is a breeze. The trick is to master assembling and attaching your yoke and collar.

Skill level:
Moderate

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Things you need

  • Shirt pattern
  • Fabric
  • Fusible interfacing
  • Straight pins
  • Point turner
  • Scissors
  • Sewing machine
  • Needle
  • Thread
  • Bias tape
  • Iron
  • Ironing board

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Instructions

  1. 1

    Pin the pattern to the fabric and interfacing

  2. 2

    Cut the fabric and interfacing according to the pattern instructions (cut two yoke pieces and two collar pieces with one interfacing piece for the collar).

  3. 3

    Fuse the interfacing to the front facing and one of the collar pattern pieces.

  1. 1

    Sew the collar according to pattern instructions.

  2. 2

    Turn the collar, press, zigzag the raw lower edge and set aside.

  3. 3

    Use straight pins to attach one yoke pattern piece to the shirt back right sides facing each other.

  4. 4

    Pin the remaining yoke pattern piece to the shirt back with the right side of the yoke facing the wrong side of the shirt back.

  5. 5

    Sew the yoke pieces to the shirt back.

  6. 6

    Press and top stitch, if desired.

  7. 7

    Use the same technique to attach the yoke to the shirt front pattern pieces.

  8. 8

    Fold the collar in half lengthwise and cut a 1/8-inch notch on the fold in the centre of the lower edge.

  9. 9

    Cut a 1/8-inch notch in neckline at the centre fold of the shirt back.

  10. 10

    Pin the notches together with the collar on the right side of the shirt.

  11. 11

    Attach the collar to the body of the garment.

  12. 12

    Zigzag the raw edges of the seam and bind with ½-inch bias tape.

  13. 13

    Attach front facings and sleeves according to pattern instructions.

Tips and warnings

  • If your pattern has a neckband, attach the collar to the neckband before attaching the neckband to the body of the garment.
  • If your pattern includes a neckband: Cut two and fuse interfacing to one. Sew one neckband pattern piece to each side of the collar on the lower edge and close on the sides. Top stitch the neckband, if desired. Cut a 1/8-inch notch in the centre of the neckband. Attach one side of the neckband to the right side of body of the shirt. Pin the inside of the neckband into place and top stitch or sew by hand, if desired.

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