A dustbin storage shed keeps unsightly dustbins out of view of the neighbourhood and street. A storage shed not only keeps the dustbins out of view, but keeps the water out of them and prevents animals from tipping them over and creating a mess in the yard. The storage shed can have a floor or not, as per your preference. The storage shed can be any width, length and height you need.
- Skill level:
Things you need
- Cement blocks or heavy-duty pavers
- 2-by 4-inch boards
- ½-inch plywood
- 3/8-inch plywood
- Drill with screwdriver bit
- Tar paper
- Prehung door
- Hurricane straps
- Drip edge
- Paint/stain/other wall covering
Cut on the 2-by 4-inch boards and the plywood based on the width and height you've planned for your shed.
Sink the cement blocks into the ground at a distance of every 4 feet for each wall so there is one at each corner. Lay a 2-by-4-inch board across the blocks. Lay the level on the board to see if the blocks are level. If they are not, dig into the ground under the blocks that are too high. All blocks should be level before you start. Only 2 inches of the block should be above the ground. Also use pavers for this step, leaving the pavers on top of the ground instead of digging into the ground.
Build the frame for the floor by screwing four 2-by-4-inch boards into a square or rectangle. Measure the square diagonally from corner to corner. Adjust as needed to be sure the square or rectangle is squared off. Set 2-by-4-inch boards running from left to right inside the square and every 6 feet. These are the floor joists. Measure again to make sure the frame is still squared off. Screw the inside boards to the frame from the outside. Use at least three screws for each board.
Cover the floor with ½-inch plywood. With the help of another person or two, lift the floor onto the cement blocks.
Build the four walls of the shed by putting together a frame in the same manner that you built the floor, except the studs for the walls should be no more than 18 inches apart. In the wall with the door, leave 3½ feet (for a standard door) between two studs. Measure the height of the prehung door. Cut a piece of 2-by-4-inch board 3½ feet long. Insert the "chair" between the two studs at the height of the door. Screw the chair into place.
Place one framed wall on the floor. While two friends hold the frame, screw the frame into the flooring. Screw two 2-by-4-inch boards to the frame and run them to the ground to support the frame while you put the rest of the walls up. Put the rest of the walls up in the same manner.
Screw the framed walls to each other at every corner. Place screws no farther apart than 12 inches, working from the bottom up. Screw two 2-by-4-inch boards to the top of the front frame, above the door. This gives the roof a slant.
Line 2-by-4-inch boards from the front to the back, across the top of the walls. Space the boards 16 inches apart. Leave an overhang of 6 inches over the front and the back. Attach the boards to the walls with hurricane straps.
Cover the roof with 3/8-inch plywood. Nail the plywood to the struts created in Step 8. Cover the plywood with tar paper. Attach drip edge to all four sides of the roof by nailing it to the roof.
Install shingles to the roof by starting at the bottom of the back of the roof and layering the shingles from left to right across the width of the roof. Work your way up to the front of the roof, overlapping the shingles on each row to create a waterproof roof.
Cover the open framework walls with plywood. If you'll be painting the shed, caulk the seams in the plywood, then sand the seams flat. If you are using another wall covering, cover the walls with tar paper, then add your chosen siding.
Fit the prehung door into the doorway. If needed, use shims to make sure the door is level. If the door is not level, it will not close properly. Nail or screw the frame of the door to the frame of the wall.
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