How to Sew With Moleskin Fabric & Suede Cloth Fabric

Written by cynthia myers | 13/05/2017

Moleskin and suede cloth are synthetic fabrics that mimic the soft, velvety texture of leather suede, but are much easier to care for. You can wash and dry moleskin and suede cloth and they don't wrinkle or shrink. Moleskin and suede cloth come in a variety of colours and can be sewn into beautiful trousers, skirts, jackets and other garments. Employ a few special techniques when sewing moleskin and suede cloth and your garments will have a professional finish.

Change to the smallest gauge needle with the sharpest point for your sewing machine. Look for needles specifically made for sewing microfiber or ultrasuede fabrics.

Thread your machine with polyester or polyester-covered cotton thread. Moleskin and suede cloth are synthetic fabrics, so you should use a synthetic thread.

Use a zigzag stitch, with a slightly longer stitch gauge to prevent seams puckering. Set the stitch gauge to three to four stitches per inch.

Finish all seams either by overcasting, serging, or by making a flat-fell seam. This helps prevent the moleskin or suede cloth from ravelling. To make a flat-fell seam, turn under the edge of each half of the seam allowance and to the garment. This results in a row of stitching on either side of the seam allowance, which shows on the right side of the garment.

Top-stitch garment hems, or fuse them with a fusible seam tape. Use a medium steam setting to fuse the tape, and run the iron lightly over the inside of the garment to prevent shiny spots on the outside of the garment.


You can also apply liquid Fray Check to seams to prevent ravelling.

Tips and warnings

  • You can also apply liquid Fray Check to seams to prevent ravelling.

Things you need

  • Sharp, small-gauge sewing needle
  • Polyester or polyester-cotton thread
  • Fusible seam tape
  • Fray check

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