If you have goats, you know how hard they can be on everything within reach, and how difficult it can be to hold them for milking or other maintenance. Building a stand will help you solve both problems. Simple building plans can adapted from online sources or from libraries and with the right tools and a few hours, you can build a goat stand that is sturdy as well as functional.
- Skill level:
- Moderate
Instructions
Things you need
- Measuring tape
- Carpenter's square
- Pencil
- Lumber:
- PARTS A - 1 x 8-inches x 10-feet; cut into three 36-inch lengths (OR use 2-inch stock and adjust lengths/widths for heavy breeds)
- PARTS B & F - (2) 1 x 4-inch x 6-feet; cut into four 36-inch pieces (match length B to length A if adjusting A)
- PARTS C & E - 1 x 4-inch x 8-feet; cut into two 20-1/2-inch and two 18 1/2-inch pieces (match C to width of platform less 1 1/2 inches if adjusting platform size)
- PARTS G & H -- 1 x 4-inch x 8-feet; cut into four 21 1/2-inch and two 4 1/2-inch pieces
- PARTS J -- 2 x 2-inch x 6-feet; cut into three 20 1/2-inch pieces (match length C if adjusting)
- PARTS D - 2 x 4-inch x 6-feet; cut into four 14-inch pieces (or 4 x 4-inch x 6-feet for heavy breeds)
- Safety glasses
- Ear protection
- Circular or hand saw
- Jigsaw (optional)
- Drill and bits
- Philips screwdriver
- Screws
- 1 box 2-inch exterior deck screws
- 4 (3-inch) exterior deck screws
- 24 (1 1/2-inch) exterior deck screws
- Hammer
- Hardware
- 2 (3 inch) corner brackets
- ¼-inch x #20 x 2 1/2 slotted round head machine screw
- ¼-inch wing nut
- ¼-inch #20 hex nut
- 2 ¼-inch flat washers
- 4-inch hook and eye latch
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1
Read all instructions before starting. This project is sized for use by a standard goat breed--large breeds may require adjustments to the length and width of the platform (Parts A, B, C & J)--modify as instructed in materials list before beginning construction.
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2
Measure boards as indicated with pencil and carpenter's square.
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3
Cut to size. Label each piece with the appropriate letter for ease of assembly. Cut out all parts (A through J) of the goat stand.
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4
Attach end of one Part C to the top of each of two legs (Parts D) using 2-inch screws. Repeat with second Part C and remaining two legs to create two sets of supports for the platform.
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5
Keep all parts square and Parts D to the inside. Use 2-inch screws to attach one Part B to each side of both supports just formed to make the frame, forming what looks like a table without a top.
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6
Attach one Part J 12 inches from each end, keeping flush with top of Parts B.
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7
Screw three Parts A to base just formed using 1 1/2-inch screws, attaching to edges and Parts J. Keep everything as square as possible. The platform can now be set aside while you construct the head gate.
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8
Take one Part E; cut the corner off one end, forming an angle---starting 1/2-inch from the outside edge to a point 4 1/2-inch lower on the inside---on the widest face to allow swivel room for the head gate. Separate the "angle-cut" Part E, the second Part E and two Parts G for assembly
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9
Lay two Parts E parallel 21 1/2 inches apart, with the angled piece to left and its cut surface facing up and toward the second Part E. Draw a line 4 inches from the bottom of each Part E. Using 2-inch screws, attach one Part G to the upper part of each Part E, and the second Part G to each Part E at the lines just drawn---forming what looks like a squared, inverted "U" with a cross piece 4 inches from the bottom.
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10
Turn the apparatus over and attach 2 more Parts G in exactly the same positions on the opposite side to form a kind of "sandwich" with Parts E in the middle. Use 2-inch screws.
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11
Lay the two Parts F side by side, edges touching. Draw a shallow oval about 3 x 13 inches, starting 4 inches below the top edge. While still in this placement, draw a line---between a point 4 1/2 inches up from inside bottom edge to another 1/2 inches from the outside of the bottom edge---to form an angle on the left-hand Part F (Label this F1 and the other F2). Draw a straight line across each, 4 inches up from bottom.
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12
Cut off the angled piece with a circular or hand saw; then cut out both halves of the drawn oval using a jigsaw (Finish the inside edges of oval with sandpaper to avoid abrasions to your goat's neck).
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13
Slide Parts F1 and F2 into the space formed between Parts G and align with the mark drawn 4 inches from bottom edges, so they are even with the bottom of the lower Part G and spaced ½ inches on either side of a center point on Part G. Use 2-inch screws to secure F2 in place.
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14
Use an 11/32-inch bit to drill a hole through both Parts G and Part F1 in the center where F1 and lower Part G intersect. Use a 13/16-inch bit to enlarge the hole to ¼-inch depth on both sides; insert and countersink the ¼-inch x #20 x 2 1/2 machine screw. Attach washer and nut and tighten.
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15
Prepare the outside corners of the side that will face away from platform by attaching two Parts H on upper Part G (Pre-drill and attach with 3-inch screws). Attach final Part J in front of Part G at Parts H to create a holder for a removable feeder.
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16
Holding head gate in front of the platform (feeder section facing away), attach with 2-inch screws into Parts E and Part F2, but not through Part F1. Attach 3-inch corner braces to opposite sides of the head gate and platform.
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17
Sand all sharp edges. Attach the hook and eye latch.
Tips and warnings
- Avoid toxic treated lumber. Try plastic composite lumber instead where rot may be a problem. A rubber mat screwed to the platform makes secure and comfortable footing. Consider adding side rails. Screw steel pipe flanges to each corner of platform. Assemble 3 pieces (per side) of threaded metal pipe joined with "elbows" to create "U" shaped rails. These will be strong enough to prevent "side-stepping", and will serve as restraint attachment points for securing particularly stubborn or kicking goats.
- Wear safety glasses and use hearing protection if using a power saw. Adhere to all recommended safety rules for operating power tools.
