How to Replace the Front Brake Rotors on a KIA Sedona

Updated July 19, 2017

Rotors for import cars are pretty affordable nowadays. The rotors on a Kia Sedona are a good example of that. Replacing the rotors yourself is more of a viable option in today's economy, especially when you consider what the dealership or repair stations charge for labour. Even if you have to purchase a few tools to add to your collection, the tools will pay for themselves with just a couple of do-it-yourself projects. Here's a comprehensive approach to replacing the rotors on your Kia Sedona in the easiest fashion and saving you a bunch of money from labour charges.

Park the Kia Sedona on a flat, level paved or concrete surface. Apply the parking brake. Release the bonnet latch.

Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear tires.

Open the bonnet and suck out half the amount of brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir using the turkey baster. Discard old fluid properly. Replace the master cylinder cap securely.

Break the lug nut loose on the left front tire using the breaking bar and a 21-millimeter socket. Do not loosen them too much and do not remove them.

Lift the left front quarter panel using the floor jack and place a jack stand under the left front frame rail to support the vehicle.

Remove the lug nuts and the wheel.

Remove the caliper bolts using a ratchet and socket. Pry the caliper off the rotor using a screwdriver and hang the caliper to the frame or coil spring with a bungee cord.

Gently pry the pads from the caliper anchor with the screwdriver, taking note of how they are positioned in the anchor. If you're not replacing the pads it is recommended that you reinstall them in the same manner they were removed.

Remove the caliper anchor bolts using the ratchet and a socket.

Remove the rotor retaining screws (2) using an impact screwdriver in the reverse position and a Phillips head bit. Strike the screwdriver with a hammer until the screw breaks free. Remove the rotor. If the rotor is stuck to the hub by rust, insert the two 8x1.25 millimetre bolts into the other holes (not the retaining screw holes) on the hub facing of the rotor. Tighten the bolts using the ratchet and socket two turns at a time and switch to the other one until the rotor breaks free of the hub.

Spray the new brake rotor with brake clean spray. Spray both sides liberally and clean off the rust preventive coating. Wipe clean with a rag.

Place the rotor on the hub, lining up the retaining screw holes in the rotor. These are the tapered holes. Screw in the retaining screws and tighten with the impact screwdriver a couple of taps in the forward position with the hammer.

Replace the caliper anchor and bolts. Insert the pads into the caliper anchor. It is recommended to place some silicone brake lubricant on the hardware contact points on the bridge when installing brake pads.

Compress the caliper piston using the C-clamp. Mount the caliper over the rotor and pads and re-tighten the caliper bolts.

Replace the wheel and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts as tight as you can with the wheel elevated then re-tighten them with the adjustable torque wrench (set at 80 foot pounds) and a socket when the Sedona is lowered to the ground.

Repeat the same procedure for the right wheel.

Pump the foot pedal of the Sedona five or six times when you're done and the vehicle is back on the ground. This will restore the hydraulic pressure to the compressed caliper pistons. Failure to do this will result in hazardous conditions.

Check and adjust the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir. Add only new DOT-approved brake fluid.

Remove the wheel chock, release the parking brake and test drive.

Things You'll Need

  • Floor jack
  • Jack stand
  • Wheel chock
  • Turkey baster
  • DOT approved brake fluid
  • 1/2 inch drive breaking bar
  • 1/2 inch drive metric socket set
  • 1/2 inch drive ratchet
  • 1/2 inch drive adjustable torque wrench
  • Bungee cord
  • Flat-edge screwdriver
  • Impact screwdriver with a Phillips head bit
  • Hammer
  • Two 8 millimetre (width) by 1.25 millimetre (thread pitch) bolts
  • Spray brake clean
  • Shop rag(s)
  • Silicone brake lubricant
  • C-clamp
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About the Author

Jody L. Campbell spent over 15 years as both a manager and an under-car specialist in the automotive repair industry. Prior to that, he managed two different restaurants for over 15 years. Campbell began his professional writing career in 2004 with the publication of his first book.